My Epiphany

I’m still in Addis Ababa, where Timkat (Epiphany) was observed yesterday afternoon and today, in commemoration of Christ’s baptism. It’s a scene worthy of description.

Yesterday the Arks of the Covenant, draped in embroidered cloths and shielded by a canopy, were taken from Addis’ churches in processions to a few locations.

This morning I went to Jan Meda, described as a horse race ground on Googlemaps but really a giant park so far as I could see. Tens of thousands of Ethiopians, many dressed in a spectacular variety of religious garb, assembled for an event that focused primarily on religion. The chanting was vaguely familiar (Jews chant in minor keys too) but of course incomprehensible to me. I was assured it was mostly praises to God. The MC of the religious ceremony would occasionally and helpfully say a few words of introduction in English, emphasizing the ecumenical, egalitarian, multiethnic, and international dimensions of the event.

A good number of people took advantage of the spray from a hose to get soaked and presumably baptized (or re-baptized), but there was a lot else going on. Donkey rides, face painting, cotton candy, soccer games, and a seemingly simplified version of roulette were all available. The street fair vibe was mostly out at the edges of the crowd and in the surrounding streets. There was also a distinct patriotic dimension: lots of green, yellow, and red paraphenalia hawked along with water, soft drinks, and various snacks and sweets.

A word about the crowd: I’d have been frightened if they had been Americans. Getting in and especially out of Jan Meda required funneling hundreds of people down to a narrow passage. Ethiopians may stand much closer to you than Americans, but they don’t push and shove or even get impatient. They wait patiently and move quickly to take advantage of the first opportunity. Best to watch your wallet and cell phone, but this crowd would be harder to provoke to stampede than those in many other countries. At least I hoped that was the case.

The streets outside Jan Meda can get pretty raucous. Beer is cheap here, and many Christian Ethiopians enjoy it. I am told the stimulant qat is also available, but I didn’t see any. The alcohol causes behavior to deteriorate. They may grab an arm, or cheer the passing half dozen whites, whom usually they ignore except for the occasional extra gesture of welcome. Single women, I am told, get harassed.

The police were out in force. They gave people heading for the religious event a cursory patdown, looking presumably for weapons, and held the crowd back periodically to prevent a crush. The Federal and Addis Ababa forces were armed only with batons. I didn’t see any used, though I am told they often are. The mounted police were skilled in pushing back the crowd from the procession, though dummies like me kept on trying to press forward for photos.

Bottom line: Ethiopians enjoy Timkat to the hilt. I did too.